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pflover
05-11-2005, 03:13 PM
The Guide to Pinching, Bending, Tying and Weighting Your Girls to a Larger and More Even Yield.


So you want to Bonzai your babies and don't know where to start. Well lets start by attempting to gain an understanding of the basic concept at work with this technique. Most simply put, cannabis is a WEED. yes, this means like most weeds cannabis will grow! bend it, cut it, break it step on it, etc... and as long as a viable growth tip still has a life line to the roots and the plant is receaving water and light it will continue to grow.

(NOTE: first step is to buy some dyna-gro pro-teck sillicon supliment or some comparable product and start watering with it regularly.)

Techeniques and skills

Pinching: IMHO this step can be started as soon as the plant is not longer a seedling and has entered the veg phase of it's life.

First you will want to learn how to pintch or crush your stems. to do this you take your thumb and index finger and gently apply pressure to the soft new stem growth about 3 nodes from the tip of the plant or branch. slowly increase the presure with a slight rolling motion util you can either fell the stem beginning to crush or until when you release it it is obviously softenned (with the new growth this is all you want). the older the growh is the more you will want to do it until the stem makes a snapping noise or crushes. after a couple days the stem will get fatter and stronger in this section allowing the plant to hold more weight.

similar things can be done to the stock bellow the point were the leaves begin. usually tho this invovles using both hands to gentally "ring" or produce and "indean burn" effect by twisting the stock in opposing directions with the two hands. do this at several levels from the base to the base of the leaves.

this techneque may take some pactice and will produce a form of cannabis bonsai (CB) all it's own. plants grown with this techneque will be supercropped, the stress plus the big thick stemps and shorter build inducing bigger thicker denser bud growth.

getting a sense for crushing will also get you ready for the next step or bending.


Bending

So you think you are read to start bending your girls to your will and producing a serious bonzai.... you're standing there with a crushed stem and a slightly limp plant and a questioning look. now what?

lets put the girls aside a second and talk body type.

there are three basic cannabis body types i have experienced thus far. 1) shorter, stockier and with good lateral branching. 2) Tall, thin, strechy even, with little or no branches to speak of and last but not least 3) reveg which no matter what it was before tends to be just plain bushy, especially at first. (there are of coarse essencially infinite combinations fo these traits but for our purposes here these 3 grouping will serve useful for determining how and when you bend.)

so now we can go back to the girls and start deciding what we want to do next.

1) if you have the first body type of plant you will want to let your girl develop for a while and then start bedding shortly before your plant is to start flowering. the reason behind this is that if you start bending early the branches will get too man branches and the whole thing will be far too dense for proper bud developent once flowering does begin.

so about 2 weeks before flowering find the lowest sport (About 3-5 internodes up) that you can get the main stock to crush between your fingers. crush and bend it as close to a 90 degree angle as you can. all the branches below this point now need to be bend in a radial patter outwards away from the top body of the plant to produc and nice fan shape. try to bend them at aproaximately the same hight as the main bend to produce a flat plain. place a small weight on the main stem at least 1 or 2 internodes past the bend. (fishing tackle works well but just about anythign works) becareful that it does not stress the plant to much or pull it below the plain. (you may also want to way the lower branches or wait a day). give the plant a day.

the next day start bending all the bantches above the bend outwards (upwards for those under the stemp) so as to maintain as even a plain of the whole plant as possible. these can often just be bend again and again day after day but weighting can be useful for them as well. on this day also begin to crush all the places on stem and branch between the nodes so as to supercrop and incourage stem thickness and not stem lenth. daily move the weights out as far as they can go with out causing the plant to dip below the plain. also bend the main tip and all growth tips out flat each day. eventually long branches and the main stem may require much heavier weights as well as multiple weight sites along the stem.

continue this process through flowering until the tips stop growing and you can no longer move stuff cuz it is too crowded and sticky with trichs.... you've done what you can do be sides pulling on the main branches' stocks to help keep them in the pain cuz they will push up toward the light with incredable strength by the time you are done.

2) with the thin one that done want to branch you gots to start much much earlier.

in this case it is the early bending that induces the developement of the much needed latteral branching. (this is the case for the Blue Mystic lady so many of you liked so much in the thread "my current crop 3/2004"

so when the plant is 5-7 internodes tall and you have determined that it just is not wanting to etend it's arms for you, you start to bend. first you crush at about the 3rd or 4th inthernode and bend the main stock. then you can either tie the main stem to the edge the pot or place a weight on it at about the 2nd or 3rd not past the bend. day after day keep the grow tip as flat and close to the plain as possible. the less it grow up the more the branches will begin to form. as they form once agian start bending them flat and pinching stems for supercropping. add weights as needed.

continue until plant is of flowering width (basic formula is once per foot of radius).
alsways trying to keep it in the plain and trying to produce as even spacing between all bratches as possible. continue with bending and moving weights into flowering until tips stop growing up and resin is too sticky.

3) The easiest group to bonzai well are by far the reveggers. (reveging is when you take a plant that has reached sexual maturity and been harvested while leaving some leaves and small buds neer the base, these a placed back under a veggitative light cycle and coaxed back into veg.)

reveggers tend to be bushy and relatively flexible. there are a couple ways to bonzai them. the easiest (if you don't brake your plant) is to focus grow on 2 or three bushy brantches ane when the get about 8-10 inches tall (or the hight you want) bend them back at the base of the branch until they are now perpendicular to the ground. do not let the branch and or stem split so much that the brach can not hold itself up any more but some spliting is ok.

once you have them pulled all out use wire (anodized aluminum bonzai wire works well) to brase the plant appart as there will be a lot of resistance against the bending. add weights to outer branches as needed and yes keep it in the plain and try to keep everything as evenly spaced as possible. continue through budding until the tips stop growing and it gets too sticky with resin.

chapter two done, on to the next.


Finally Flowering: the last and final installment.

So now you've got your girl(s) all bent, weighted and tied down and you are thinking it's about time to start the 12/12 lightcycle, is there anything else you need to know to make the bonzai flowering thing actually workout to be worth your while?

first you will want to transplant, or double pot, into soming that is at least 5 gal if you are in soil. anything LESS would be a WAIST of time. keep in mind that too an extent the larger the root ball the larger the total bud mass. if you transplant the you will want to wait about 2 weeks into the flowering cycle or after when most of the initial growth induced by the budding light cycle has basically stopped. this way all the extra root development does not go to producing stem length but goes to producing more fuller buds. thus bugger harvest.

if you double pot you will want to do it emediately as it takes a lot longer for the roots to spread through the wholes in the bottom of the pot.

finally don't forget to keep bending the tips out flat and moving the wieghts until the tips stop growing significantly and the buds start to swell. at this point it should be come much harder to move the weights too much with out seriously disturbing the buds and all those precious trichs on them.

(update: There are lots of ways this technique can be manipulated, altered or impoved bassed on your personal growing and smoking tastes. One variation is to stop bending as soon as flowering starts, resulting in taller bud strctures. Another variation that is often combined with this one is to remove all the lower buds and focus all bud growth just on the tips. I prefer fluffy buds but if you would rather have dense buds then you can also trim off the big fan leaves as soon as the branch at it's node starts to develop. this will limit the vertical growth of the branch and later the bud but ultimately does not seem to effect over all bud production. experiement and have fun. )

for now, this here by concludes my Bonzai grower's guide to single plant sea of green. i wish all the luck to your and your attemps to learn and use this wonderful style of growing. I have not tried this method with a light larger than 400 but it especially seems suited to smaller lights like the 400s.

this technique is always under development and imput is always welcome. :cool:

good luck!

Ally

pflover
05-11-2005, 03:26 PM
to continue the visual demonstration....

the primary pot used for main plant featured in the pix is a 5 gal pot, the secondary pot (the big red one) is a 16 gal pot. this plant is a catalyst plant. yield 3.8 oz, size, 3ft x 2.5ft, age 50 days into flowering, light 2x400w hps for 3 weeks 1x400w hps last 4 weeks.

the last pic is a blue mystic plant in a 1/2 gal primary pot, its secondary was a 10 gal bag of soil. yield 3 oz. size equivelent to 1.25ft x 1.25ft, age about 42 days into flowering, light single 400w hps.

:D :rolleyes:

swampy
05-11-2005, 03:27 PM
wow I could picture a lawn of bonzais :rolleyes:

buddyh
05-11-2005, 04:02 PM
Nice stuff, THANKS!!!!!
And you're right about the rootball to yeild ratio.
In growing regualr bonzai plants, where the goal is to create a plant/tree in miniature, every year or so it is necessary to cut back the rootball to about the same mass as you've pruned the Bonzai, this helps to keep the plant/tree small. The bigger the rootball the more growth the plant will have in all phases.

shadowlily
05-12-2005, 12:51 AM
wow is all i can say pf.....one day....i might (just might) be able to do something like that....

ashspop
05-12-2005, 01:01 AM
I grew a couple small plants on screens outdoors using your crushing and tieing methods last year. An Super Impact from ty and and a romulan. My grow spot only gets about 4 hours of direct sun and gets shaded sun the rest of the day. I liked the way they grew. The only problems I had was that the screens didn't fill in all the way. I only harvested about 3/4 oz per plant. I have a nice selection of clones to select from. I think I will try Northernberry and Ice. They are both very dense plants. I have blackberry also which is THE quickest most densly budded plant I have. but Because of the dense branching I have had a hard time taking clones off the 10 in plant.

ojibman
05-12-2005, 04:37 AM
pf, maybe the next one you do you could take pictures of each step that would help me out more as my peabrain only can take in so much info and pics are always good learning tools for me. The end result is amazing but pictes of each step would be invaluble....ojib

pflover
05-12-2005, 02:46 PM
that is a HUGE thread but i will work on it when i get my smart media card for my digi cam replaced. the one that came with the camera pooped out on me a month ago. :(

iggysplat
05-12-2005, 03:02 PM
PF..great post..very informative... I am a bender

pflover
05-12-2005, 03:26 PM
us robots have to stick together ;) <giggle>

Pierke Pierlala
05-12-2005, 04:48 PM
Very interesting posting, Pflover. Thank you for this info ! ;)

Greetings from

Pierke. :cool:

salmayo
06-20-2005, 02:51 PM
My past training technics were aimed at getting maximum utilization of available radiance.

For instance using 40 watts (W) per square foot (FT^2) of wide spectrum fluorescents maintained a 18 inch deep canopy of foliage without leaf drop at the bottom due to lack of light (penetration) without training.
In order to optimize growth, the plants were put into flowering at this height, since less would give lower yield and more gave negligible results.
To further reduce light starvation of the lower leaves, the tops were bent at the initiation of flowering, and again 10 to 14 days later, then as needed in order to maintain an even top canopy (seldom).
The main buds were sizable and a bonus of additional side buds developed at the top of the canopy at the same level as the main ones. This method gave the best results for a given amount of light, which determines the canopy thickness.

My technique looks similar to yours only stared later. Your plants appear more like a satelite dish (very nice), where as mine were more of a candleophra (I wish my brother George was here. ~Liberacie). Yours are uniformly dense (so firm, so full, so tightly packed. ~Robin Williams), while mine were solid at the top and progressively thinner until starving at the bottom (much like society, "Bah Humbug!" ~Ebonezer Skroog).

Now that D'Law has passed a bunch of bogus laws to limit plant numbers (6) in California, Light is no longer the limiting factor. But rather than changing my technique, I would prefer to swat the D'Law and propose standards based on limits only if recommended by a doctor or light wattage, since I think it's much more important to maintain genetics (more plants, same yeild).

purplemyst
08-12-2005, 11:30 PM
Wow Ally... you are making onemynde and i think .. is this something that can be done by a total newbie?

Also,... got a lighter i can borrow? :p

1JoeSky_IVXX
08-13-2005, 12:39 AM
Excellent addition to the TY diy library

pflover
08-13-2005, 05:39 AM
Sal, i have tried your method a few times, usually on less plants at any one time. size of the plant and purpose of the plant (being a tester for example) often are what persued me to do it that way. how ever as a general rule i do not find it as suitable to my production needs being limited to 3 plants per patient x 2. i recently got a 1000 and based on some differences in style between my methods and catalyst's methods i have been experimenting with different depths of cannapy. IMPO, it is ALWAYS worth it to trim the lower light starved buds even as late as week 3 or 4, depending on strain, in order not to drain plant resources on inferior buds. you might consider tryin this on half you garden next time and comparying over all yield/quality ratios per plant. :)

Thanx for the compliments and sharing of your technique.




LOL as you can see we save all our used lighters around here, myst.

and yes this is something that can be done by a newbie but i suggest you experiement with supercroping as i discribe it first and then move to bending jumping to bending can result in some over stress plants. ;) also, please do get some silica product like silica blast of dyna grow proteck. these products do make a big difference when treating your girls this harshly. hehehe cannabis S&M can be a lovely thing! <giggle!>

Ally

CaliGirl
08-13-2005, 01:57 PM
pf, I've been experimenting with some of my plants and found that topping them makes a tremendous difference in the amount of bud. I've bent them over so sun can reach the inside buds, but not to the same extent you have. Most of the leaves have died on my plants and all that is left is bud and small leaves. I hope this is alright. The buds are looking great with some bud stems being 18" long so far on the ones I topped and bent over. Thanks for the instructions. You are a good teacher! :)

pflover
08-13-2005, 02:48 PM
small bud leaves can still produce ok in the end as long as they get good light.

i personally find bending highly superior to toping but that's just me. :rolleyes:

pflover
09-14-2005, 03:16 AM
that i would share a few more bonzai pix

Original Misty top and side

Catalyst top, side, and bud

shadowlily
09-14-2005, 03:43 AM
beautiful as always pf!

do i recognize that hand in the 2nd shot? hehehehh.

pflover
09-14-2005, 03:45 AM
thanx for letting me borrow the camera. ;)

shadowlily
09-14-2005, 03:46 AM
anytime you need photo services now, you'll know who to call ;]

reddiet
09-14-2005, 12:39 PM
Absolutely beautiful PF. Excellent DIY. Your a real pro

RED

akblugirl
09-15-2005, 02:47 PM
Pflover~
Do you actually transplant, or just work the bottoms of the primary pots into the dirt of the secondary pots? Or do you bury the primary pots? Those big buckets are a great idea!
Your fully "done" plant looks like a Christmas tree...cool idea.
I use hemp rope and fishing weights myself....
Peace,
AKB

pflover
09-15-2005, 04:53 PM
:) fishing weights are a GREAT source of weight :)

i just work the bottoms of the primary pots into the dirt of secondary pots (usually the secondary pot is just a soil bag).

the big red bucket was too big for me....

Malken
09-25-2005, 03:43 PM
I thought they could be grown in relatively small pots... shows what I know.

anyway, after the harvest do you just pull the smaller pot out and trim the root bits that went through the holes?

Binky
09-25-2005, 04:24 PM
Good and informative, thanks pflover:)

pflover
09-26-2005, 02:48 AM
Thanx for the compliment binky! :D

exactly malken :)

diamond
04-12-2006, 04:13 PM
excellent thread pflover.very informative.k+

FUNK4:20
04-12-2006, 04:38 PM
one of my fav. threads:) Nice pflover

coralreef
04-14-2006, 12:00 PM
want to try this for mommas.

pflover
04-14-2006, 06:00 PM
In my opinion, mamas are better done as small ball shaped tokiaries and not fully spread out bonzai because the take up less room as a ball and mostly mamas are about the storing of genes and the the most exposed growth tips.

coralreef
04-15-2006, 04:36 PM
yeah. red in a recent mag about doing mommas and keeping them smaller. Been reading everything I can. as the space is small. Better to keep one good momma.

In The Wind
04-15-2006, 04:51 PM
Do you top your moms pf?

pflover
04-17-2006, 12:50 PM
in the sense that i clone my mom's yes. the epis of maristem is the first growth tip to go usually. i do not tend to think of this as topping so much as taking cuttings. same action but with a very different motivation beind it.

Free 2 b me
05-18-2006, 10:39 PM
Wow pf....awesome pics!! Thanks for the very informative thread...gonna have to study this one for sure!! Great looking grow!!
Peace and One Love,
Free:cool:

Smokin Joints
06-09-2006, 03:29 AM
awesome pics! pflover i love the way u grew your plants! i would love to know how you got them to be so full of buds and so short at the same time? was it the breeds or the way you grew them?

pflover
06-09-2006, 05:00 AM
those usually actually veg for 6-8 weeks or more.... not that short of time.....

kittyslave
08-22-2006, 10:28 PM
Is there anyone who can help me? I've read the instructions, but I don't have time to study them the way I have to to learn it. My mind is so fuzzy from mercury, it's hard to focus and absorb it, and I have about three weeks before I flower them. I need someone to come over and help me weigh them down, bend, do all the stuff. I have at least two of the types, maybe one of each of the three. Anyone understand this well enough to help a newbie? Please?

Thanks!
Arika

4peaceandfreedom
09-05-2006, 11:41 AM
I got you covered Arika! Just name the day! Don't cut yourself short either! I have seen your ladies. You are doing a great job, especially for a newbie!

Take care,
4P&F

kittyslave
09-05-2006, 08:56 PM
I got you covered Arika! Just name the day! Don't cut yourself short either! I have seen your ladies. You are doing a great job, especially for a newbie!

Take care,
4P&F Thank you! They are starting to get out of control now. Have you seen what I'm comparing myself to? Well, you have, because you're here.

[frustration scream] I need to tame my ladies and bend them around the pots. They have run out of room. I'm trying to get pics uploaded so I can show [whoever] what I'm up against.

Anyway, if you could come out tomorrow, that would be great... wait, I will have to hide them from the A/C repair guy for a bit. I better call you when he's gone, or to let you know when he's coming. I don't have enough weights, so I've started taping the string to the pot. I'm worried about how much physical stress they can take. Let me get those images uploaded...

Arika

pflover
09-05-2006, 08:59 PM
by the sound of it you should probably be flowering soon.

kittyslave
09-05-2006, 09:35 PM
how long is flowering? do i have time to get them shaped? when do they start forming buds? how long to harvest once i start flowering?

pflover
09-05-2006, 09:47 PM
all the strains you have can be happily harvested 8-10 weeks after you switch the light to 12/12. you have aproximately 7-14 days before really noticeable budsites start to form. you can usually continue to shape them for 14-21 days after switching the light. after this they should be left allow to flower. mark on a callander when you start flowering so that you know why it has been 8 weeks and can start thinking about harvest.

kittyslave
09-05-2006, 11:26 PM
Thank you. I will mark it down on calendar. I was thinking I had two more weeks to 12/12, but you think it's much closer than that? Two to three weeks extra doesn't give me much time. I have so much to do, and so much to learn.

I'm not clear on where I pinch, and where from that I put the string (which I weigh down or tape down), and how long I wait to tape down...

I thought it was two or three shoots from the tip. I just realised you meant from the stem, didn't you? And when you are talking about the initial bending of the plant, you mean from the ground. No wonder I was having a hard time understanding why it was so flimsy and how this could work. I get to thinking backwards from others; I should just take that for granted, and turn everything around in my mind to see it if makes more sense... I'll make a note of that. (bang head on desk)

Smokin Joints
09-06-2006, 04:04 AM
Hi I am now sooooooo intersted in this technique now that i have read the whole first post that you wrote pf. the first time i posted i just looked at the pics and didnt even read the whole thread so now that i am growing i remembered what you told me and i decided to do more investigating to see what i could do to maximize my yield. so here I am!:D

I hope you can help a little :o yea you know im a rookie at this but i cant lie im having fun with it. the only down part is the males that i have found the past two days. but newayz the 2grapetank and 2mango i got growing are growing very nicely and i have decided to go bonzai on 1 of each.

so now i read the whole post you wrote but im kind of worried/confused about the area of where i bend ? also once i bend the spot on stem what do i do? just leave it as is? oh ya since i dont have any i need to buy this first right?(NOTE: first step is to buy some dyna-gro pro-teck sillicon supliment or some comparable product and start watering with it regularly.)

if so i will buy some first thing tomorrow. i got to go buy more soil anyway and some 2 galln pots for my bigones.

so after i have bought dyna gro pro teck how long before i bend stem? or can i bend now?

thats all i can thnk of for now...

pf to the rescue...........;)

pflover
09-06-2006, 04:30 AM
yeah i would get some dyna grow pro teck asap. if your plants are not too brittle you could start bending right away but if they are brittle it may take 2 weeks before the really start loosening up some. bend as low as you can get way with without snapping the outer skin of the stalk... this may take a day or two of slow bending to do without hurting the stalk. slow bends are safer than fast ones on think stalks.

males with AF plants can be a good thing. safe some of the pollen and make a few seeds if you want to grow them again.

xxpanamaxx
10-06-2006, 11:34 PM
pf,

Wow hats off to you, love to see a person perfect their own techniques.

Kitty,

If you don't have a basket of lighters, what I use is jute twine and paper clips. Just open the clip and latch it on to the rim of the pot after tying to a branch, you can increase the tension each day and acheive more bend.

But I will say there is no arguing with pf's technique it definately speaks for itself!! Simply increadible.

Keep it green,

Panama

chataqua
05-15-2007, 04:28 PM
Thank all of you For:
The spectacular Pic's, The excellent coaching, and making me feel welcomed.

My caregiver suggested this site, I'm so happy he turned me on to this community.

My ladies are outside and have taken the manipulation very well. They are a healthy color and showing a good growth rate.

This is my first try growing since 1980. I figured I would devote all three to the Bonzai method.

Special Thanks to PF!

Enjoy the Day!

pflover
05-15-2007, 06:28 PM
gald to help. :)

Smokin Moose
06-13-2009, 09:49 PM
This is a really cool tutorial Ally. I'd missed this before so thanks for the link in the other thread :)

Smokin Joints
06-14-2009, 01:37 AM
omg , i just had a flashback! This thread brings back so many memories! I still use this method to this day, Thanks to you ally! You were the 1st to show me the art of LST. Thank you for being a friend and always being there for me.. I mean this from the bottom of my heart!:)