$4 DIY light defuser: lower your light ,not burning

[grinkeeper]

THIS IS A DIY LIGHT DIFUSER FOR $4 , MADE FROM DOLLAR STORE PARTS....

Ok if you have seen these new light defuser that clamp onto your socket in horizontal HID systems .They defuse the light so you can lower the light closer to your canopy. Basicly it is a perferated peice of steel that eliminates hot spots from your bulb so you dont sizzle your buds. I think they are a good idea but I havet read any reviews of them yet even though there is more than one company make very similar products. I seen them online by the same company that makes the "AJUST-A-WING" shades. and also seen them profiled in MAXIMUM YEILD MAG & THE INDOOR GARDENER MAG.. So if ya havent seen them go cheak them out if you have then you know what the hell I am talking about already...

The parts:
3 steel hand potato mashers from the dollar store cost $3.00
1 steel hose clamp cost $0.50
4 nuts and 4bolts cost $0.50
total cost $4.00
time spent 30 minutes

tools needed:
electric /cordless drill
drib bits
hacksaw
vice grips
screwdriver
pliers or adjustable wrench

DESCRIPTION: once you see the step by step photos you will see its very straight forward. The project really depends on what bulb you are going to be building it for as the length will be different for variuos sizes. I was building a defuser for a 1000wat hps bulb so I had a defuser that was 3 times the length of the one I built for my 400watt metal halide bulb. I did this whole project with out any problems in 30mins and you should have no problem doing them same as I didnt have a work shop or and help. I actually did it in my kitchen while watching T.V. it was very easy...

The performance:
I think that the original product is a great idea as it allows you top get you light closer to you plants with out burning. It is scientificly designed and 3D modelled and auotCAD this and CNC that and NASA here and so on and so on. I think its basically a strip of shinny steel with holes in it to scatter the light a bit .It should work in theory to get you light lower than with out the defuser. I have not been using it for a long time as I just built it 24hours ago so I dont have any results yet. I can tell that I have lowered my light 2" right away and will try and do about an 3/4" everyday till I see signs of burning. With out it I was already very close to the burning distance so I should see improvements in this respect. Now as far as lumens go I dont have a light meter but I can tell you I know I will be getting far better light penitration deeper into the canopy and with my plants being to tall already I need this aspect greatly...

CONCLUSION:
cheap, easy, quick little project, out right theft of someone else's idea , safe and it works great. short term evaluation is 10/10 as far as long term test this will have to come from the plants them selfs to see if it works good or not. I should have a good definitive answer because what I can judge th performance by is the development of lower buds which are usually scrap material or bubble bag material. Maybe with this defuser I will be able to get some usefull buds from lower down on the stems finally....

so enjoy and if you have any question, fire away...

P.S.... is it just me or don't you think there should be a D.I.Y. step by step section on T.Y. SOME WHERE...You know a dedicated build your own section with various projects and tutorials on the construction of these projects...

[grinkeeper]

here are a couple more pics of it installed on the 1000watt hps. I can feel a small reduction of radiant heat from direct beaming of the bulb onto the closest budsites. The thing I dont notice is the reduction in light output at all. its just being redirected and bounced around a bit but this allows the lowering of the light. No I think that my potato masher defuser lets a bit more light through than the original store bought design and this if fine with me as long as the original principal and theory is still being up held and can you really go wrong when it only cost $ 4 also......

[Richi420]

Very good thinking.... I had one years ago that an old friend gave me and I loved it. Was thinking of finding one since I dont have the funds for a rail system or light mover. Let us know how it works. Four dollars is alot cheaper then what they want for them...or did anyways. Thanks for the tip.Peace

[grinkeeper]

I made this out of necessity as I dont like ordering over the interenet and my local hydro shops did not sell them. So had to make my own and so far it works great....My next project will be to replicate the design and features of the "ADJUST-A-WING" shade as I cant find a store close that carries them. I have read lots about this shade and it kicks ass for sure. If I had my choice ,price no object,I would go with the bell technologies shade but for a simple design that works like gangbusters you cant beat the "ADJUST-A-WING" shades and that glass coating kicks arse as well...I know PISTOL PETE SWEARS BY THEM and he has try lots of equipment....
included here is a few pics of the shade I am talking about if you havent seen it before...

[grinkeeper]

come to think of it here is a good idea . Maybe I should put a picture up of the original product that I am DIYing... this is one company's version which is a bit different that the one I am using as a base reference but it works on the same principals. which could be said as "extremely cheap to produce but extremely over priced to the end user" isnt capitalism a crime some times... Im not a MARXIST but hey I do like to use my brain and hands together once in a while and save a penny or two while I am at it....

[sevens]

very nice .i see you are quite handy ..i saw one of those install in a grow store for a demo
of course the light was off ...i did ask the huy at the store why is it that you do place it above the light instead of under ?.he told me that is the go they work .i was puzzle a bit .
after he did finish explaining about the fact ..of raising heat and it was the best place to install it ..i did also see some picture on the net about the .hotspot diffuser and they are on top too .i guess it could work both way ..but ...lolthere is always a but ....the guy at the store told me it was more effficient this way .....i will do a bit of research on that to find
the picture i am talking about .....i have to say i like your diy ...i will get on it too ..thanks
peace ...7..:)

[cannarchist]

... AND it looks like it would make a very nice bun warmer ... or set in a couple wieners (not penises) and buns and by the time you are done chores in your room, you can have a nice snack. If you do not know I am joking then you are an ________ <--- fill in the blank

[Richi420]

Ya they have had these for years now, the one I had went under the light. I would really like to see the results of using it. Your very handy it looks like, thats a real nice hod you made. Peace

[grinkeeper]

I can not think of one good reason why anyone would mount the defuser above the light. It cant have any effect in the "on top " position. I thought The whole idea of these was to put a deflection of light so you dont burn your plants as the plants get closer to the bulb or if you are pushing your luck and getting your light as close as possible to get more lightr into your plants.. Its working so far. I have been able to get my light 3" closer for sure and thats being safe. I still have to do some tests and it will take some time to make sure I dont burn my buds... so slow is better for this test , much like most things to do with plants.. patience .. but I am happy with it for sure....
now if anyone should know if you are to put a defuser on top or bottom I would say pistol pete would know because I think he said he had one of these...
so chime in anyone who has used one of these before...!!!!!!
but I am pretty sure it has to me on the under side of the bulb, but anything is possible.....

dollar store junkie

[Richi420]

The one's I know go on the bottom......I have heard of ones that go on top but it was for better reflection, instead of losing some "rays" because they bounce back in the bulb they reflect the "rays" that go straight up off abit so they dont reflect back into the bulb. It might be those ones...I don't know....all I know is the one I used went on the bottom of the bulb. Peace

[sevens]

the one i am talking about is made of polish >>>.aluminium ...i knew i would have some red underline for this word ..any motor for motocycle have some finn around the head ..you can just look on your lawnmow..wel the gadget u use to cut your grass ..those small lines of aluniminium are made this way just to dissipate the heat ..the one i did see was made with an alloy with a high content of aluminium ...the first time i have ever see that i did think ..they are crasy for that price ...lol then i did think i could make one for cheap ....i forgot about it until i saw your tread on this ..my first ideas was to use a spring .but i could never find the right material for it most of the spring are made of steel .i was looking for aluminium wire ...this should do the trick ....one day i will find .....7..:)

[sevens]

what can i say i was wrong ..i did see one with le hot spot under the light ..you are right grin ...i am a st thomas ..i have to see to believe ..lol...i should have know better from you .quite sure you would not post anything without doing some good reshearch ......
is my face red ?...lol...peace ..7..:o

[Richi420]

Hey just wondering how its working for you? really interested to see if it works......Peace

[Richi420]

bump.......................

[grinkeeper]

this device works great and its the right price. an external probe would be nice but with a short extension cord you can get this unit at the right hieght to trigger on of off so your environment controls are well under control

[salmayo]

These diffusers conduct heat away from the light that strikes them, so they do shield the tops of the plants from some light, but the main affect is heat conduction away from the grillwork into the metal base the grillwork is attached to.

Considering this, it would be a good idea to provide a metal heat condution path for the hot grill to be sinked to, for getting the heat away from the bulb and down into the exhaust duct or away to a heat radiation point away from the bulb/plants. For instance, if you aren't using ducting, then a grill under the bulb, metal to metal, heat sinked to another grill (radiator) above the lamp fixture, would conduct the heat to above the lamp fixture, away from the bulb and plants.

A simple 4" to 6" roll of 1/2" or similar wire mesh arround the bulb, extending down a duct or simply out away from the bulb will conduct a great deal of heat away from the bulb, and even radiate heat convectively to the air, rather than radiating it at your plants.

Glass covers use insulation to hold heat in, while metal grills use conduction to draw heat to cooler areas.

If you use wire mesh covers or grills on your bulbs, make sure they are grounded. It's much safer and it even grounds out radio interference from bulbs/ballasts/fixtures, acting as a Gaussian cage (radio shielding for those of you using high frequency ballasts, mine runs at over 42 kHz so I use grounded fixtures and 4 strand Coax bulb cables).

[grinkeeper]

can you post some pics of these contraption , I would love to see it in use to get a better idea of how it works, either way great to hear you chime in DR.SCIENTIFICO